Goods

The front of a washed black tee laid flat: a small cream disc on the left chest, the 1 inside it left in the shirt’s own black.

The answer

The answer on the front. Turn round for the working.

  • Heavy washed black jersey, softly folded, its faint charcoal tone.

    Thick yarn, knit close. It hangs straight, doesn’t go see-through, and softens with washing rather than wearing thin.

    Light. Thin yarn, and it shows through.
    Heavy. Thick yarn, knit close.
  • The ribbed neckline of a washed black tee, the black faded a little toward charcoal.

    Sewn first, then dyed black, so it has shrunk once already and the black comes out soft, a little faded at the seams.

    Dyed as cloth. It shrinks in your first wash.
    Dyed after sewing. It has shrunk already.
  • Close on the cream disc on washed black jersey, the 1 inside it left in the shirt’s own black.

    Discharge lifts the black out of the cotton where it prints, so the cream is the shirt itself: nothing on top to feel or crack. The 1 is left black.

    The dye decides the exact cream, and some blacks won’t discharge at all, so we test on the exact shirt first.

    Light ink. A thick layer on top.
    Discharge. The dye lifted out of the cotton.
A natural canvas tote laid flat: 1, 2, 3 and 4 stacked as a sum with a plus and a rule, and Carry the One as the answer, a small red 1 carried over its O.

The sum tote

  • Natural cotton canvas, softly folded, small dark flecks in the cream weave.

    Undyed and unbleached: the cotton’s own colour, flecks and all.

    Bleached. An even white.
    Natural. Undyed, flecks and all.
  • A black printed O on natural canvas, a small red 1 printed above it.

    The ink soaks into the canvas instead of sitting on it, so it wears with the bag.

    The red is kept for the carried 1, the way you’d mark it on paper.

    Plastisol sits on top of the yarn, and can crack.
    Water-based soaks into it, and fades with it.
  • The folded top hem of a canvas tote, two rows of stitching, the edge of a black disc below.

    The sum on one side, its 1 on the other, so it reads whichever way it hangs.

    Side a. The sum.
    Side b. Its 1.
An ecru long sleeve laid flat, Carry the One printed small on the left chest, a small black disc stitched near the cuff.

The wordmark long sleeve

  • A stitched shoulder seam on smooth ecru jersey.

    Thick yarn, knit close, so it hangs straight and doesn’t go see-through. Ecru is the colour of cotton before it’s bleached: warm, not bright.

    Light. Thin yarn, and it shows through.
    Heavy. Thick yarn, knit close.
  • The thin strokes of small black printed capitals on ecru jersey, the knit showing through the ink.

    Water-based ink soaks into the cotton instead of sitting on top of it. You barely feel the print, and it fades along with the shirt.

    Plastisol sits on top of the yarn, and can crack.
    Water-based soaks into it, and fades with it.
  • The ribbed cuff of an ecru sleeve, a small black disc embroidered flat just above it.

    Stitched flat in black thread, not printed, so it holds up at the wrist, where a sleeve wears hardest.

    Puff. Over foam, so the edges round off.
    Flat. The thread lies close on the cloth.
A washed black cap, a cream disc with the 1 stitched flat on the front.

The disc cap

  • The soft front panels of a washed black twill cap, faded toward charcoal at the seams.

    No stiff panel behind the front, so it takes the shape of your head.

    Structured. A stiff lining holds the front up.
    Unstructured. Soft, it takes your shape.
  • Flat cream satin stitches forming a disc on black twill, a black 1 inside it.

    A disc this small keeps a clean edge only when it’s stitched flat. Raised stitching would round off the 1.

    Puff. Over foam, so the edges round off.
    Flat. The thread lies close on the cloth.
  • The back of a washed black cap: small cream letters stitched flat above the strap opening.

    The disc and our name on the back are stitched in polyester, which keeps its colour through sun and washing.

    Thread comes in set colours, so we pick the cream nearest ours by its number and check a stitch-out first.

    Rayon. More shine, but it fades.
    Polyester. Holds its colour in sun and bleach.
A washed black hoodie laid flat, the house’s 1 embroidered small in cream thread on the left chest.

The 1 hoodie

  • The folded edge of black fleece: a smooth face over a soft back.

    All cotton, smooth outside and soft inside. Sewn first, then dyed black, so it has shrunk already and the black comes out soft.

    Dyed as cloth. It shrinks in your first wash.
    Dyed after sewing. It has shrunk already.
  • Close on the chest: the 1 in dense cream satin stitch on black fleece.

    A thin line sinks into thick fleece. The 1 is stitched dense and flat in cream thread, so it sits on top.

    Puff. Over foam, so the edges round off.
    Flat. The thread lies close on the cloth.
  • The end of a line of cream serif lettering, its full stop, on black fleece.

    Discharged like the answer: the black lifted out of the cotton, so the words are part of the fleece, not a layer on it.

    The dye decides the exact cream, so we test on the real hoodie first.

    Light ink. A thick layer on top.
    Discharge. The dye lifted out of the cotton.
CTO 001’s goods
Sources

The answer and the 1 hoodie. PRINTING United’s guide to discharge, Los Angeles Apparel.